Bakso (Indonesian Beef Meatball Soup)

Simmer the beef bones in 2 litres of water for an hour, skimming, then strain. Add the fried garlic with its oil, salt and white pepper to the strained broth.

Blend the frozen-edged beef cubes with the garlic, salt and pepper in a food processor, adding the ice water a spoonful at a time, until you have a smooth, sticky, pale paste.

💡 If the paste starts to look greasy or warm, stop and put the bowl in the fridge for 15 minutes. Beef paste that has been allowed to warm up gives grainy, crumbly meatballs and no amount of starch will fix it.

Work in the tapioca starch in three additions, pulsing just enough to combine each time.

Bring a wide pan of water to about 80°C — steaming with small bubbles at the bottom, never a rolling boil.

💡 Boiling water blows the meatballs apart and makes them hollow. Shaping them into water this hot and no hotter is the difference between springy and rubbery.

Squeeze the paste through your fist so a ball forms between thumb and forefinger, scoop it off with a wet spoon and drop it into the water. Keep going, wetting the spoon each time.

The meatballs sink, then float. Give them 3 more minutes after they surface, then lift them out.

Cook the noodles, blanch the greens, and warm the meatballs through in the hot broth.

Fill each bowl with noodles, greens and meatballs, ladle broth over, and top with fried shallots and chopped celery leaf. Sambal, kecap manis and vinegar go on the table.