Xiaolongbao (Soup Dumplings)

Simmer the pork skin and bones for a few hours into a rich stock, season it, then chill until it sets into a firm aspic and dice it.

Mix the ground pork with ginger, scallion, soy and wine, then fold the diced aspic through — it melts into soup when steamed.

Knead a hot-water dough until smooth and rest it, covered, for 30 minutes.

Roll into small rounds that are thin at the edge and slightly thicker in the center.

Place a spoon of filling in each and pleat the edge into a tight spiral, twisting the top closed.

Steam on parchment or cabbage for about 8 minutes until the wrappers turn translucent; serve at once with black vinegar and ginger.